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Yarn Structure Workshop


I just finished a first-time workshop named Yarn Structure, at the WGGB, Weavers Guild of Greater Baltimore.  As you may guess this combined old and new concepts.  It also proved to be a more than two-day workshop squeezed into two days.  I'm posting this as a reference for my students and as a reference for those inquiring about my workshop style. 



This class focused on using the understanding of grist/density and twist tightness to effect a change in the yarn during plying.  These three self-ply yarn samples below created very different types of yarns.  However, when all the air is forced out of each, it is apparent that they have the same density, the same amount of fibers, but are held together with differing amounts of twist.

I have always understood yarn structures as recipes, that you can substitute ingredients once you understand why that ingredient is necessary to the finished product.

Here is our first worksheet recipe using different sizes, densities, and tightness in the 2-ply to create a Spiral Yarn.  The greater the differences the more dramatic the spiral results.

Recipe number two jumps into the area I call Illegal Yarn, which also creates a spiral or textured yarn.  I use the term illegal when S-plying together one effect Z-ply with one soft S-ply.  When the S-plying is done, and the yarn wet set while restricted, not stretched, you get a structurally sound, textured yarn.  This is easier for a spinner who tends to spin very softly.

Recipe number three is the standard Cable Yarn.  A classic yarn that every spinner ought to be familiar with.  This yarn is created when two plied yarns are plied/cabled together.  The cable yarn requires over-plying both plied yarns before it will create the braided cable look.

Recipe number four is Bouclé Yarn.  I love creating this yarn with mohair and hair type wools like Leicester Longwool or Lincoln.  I prefer using duel-duty sewing thread for the binders.  Of course, if you enjoy spinning very fine, you can easily spin your binders.

Finally, I added what I call the X-cross yarn.  This yarn has the hallmarks of a cable and a bouclé, however, it is a three-ply made with two Z-plies, plied S. Then the S-plied yarn and an S-ply single are put together with Z-plying. 

I also included a reference sheet to keep track of the fibers we used in the workshop.  Clearly, it was more than a two-day workshop.  Next time I will be more judicious with the time allotted.

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